1. Field of the Invention
The present invention concerns a shibori clothes manufacturing method, with which crimps are formed in a cloth by application of the binding technique of xe2x80x9cshibori dyeingxe2x80x9d (tie-dyeing), which is a traditional Japanese dyeing method, shibori clothes made by this manufacturing method, and a dyeing method favorable for the manufacturing method.
2. Description of the Related Art
There is a traditional Japanese dyeing technique called the xe2x80x9cshibori dyeingxe2x80x9d method, which is used to dye kimonos. With this technique, dyeing is performed after forming relief-like shapes called xe2x80x9cshiboxe2x80x9d (crimps) by pinching and binding the cloth with thread or other suitable method to prevent the entry of dye solution at parts of the cloth. Representative examples include kanoko (dappled) shibori, Arimatsu shibori, etc.
The techniques of binding the cloth used in shibori dyeing have been mostly handed down as special pattern expression techniques that made use of the differences in the degrees of dyeing of bound cloth portions and unbound cloth portions.
FIG. 10 schematically shows the xe2x80x9cshibori (binding) processxe2x80x9d of such xe2x80x9cshibori dyeingxe2x80x9d techniques and this process is characterized in binding the cloth prior to the dyeing process.
If shibori (bound) shapes can be formed intentionally using the above-described binding technique in the xe2x80x9cshibori dyeingxe2x80x9d techniques, it may become possible to provide clothes which have various forms of crimps (gathers) that exhibit new types of handling and draping qualities and with which the stretchability of the crimped portions provide woven clothes with body fitting qualities similar to those of knitted clothes.
However, in manufacturing clothes using such xe2x80x9cshiborixe2x80x9d techniques, particularly in cases where a polyester textile is employed for the cloth and print dyeing is performed, migration and sublimation of the dye tended to occur readily due to the heat of the steam in the shibori xe2x80x9csetting process.xe2x80x9d There was thus the danger of loss of commercial value.
The objects of the present invention are therefore to (1) provide methods of manufacturing shibori clothes of the desired form and hue in a secure and stable manner by application of the above-described xe2x80x9cshiborixe2x80x9d techniques of xe2x80x9cshibori dyeingxe2x80x9d and taking measures to intentionally leave the relief-like shapes called xe2x80x9cshiboxe2x80x9d (crimps) in the clothes, which are the final products, (2) to apply a dyeing method that can effectively prevent migration and sublimation to shibori techniques, and (3) to provide new types of shibori clothes with unique forms, stretchability, handling and draping qualities, comfort when worn, etc.
In order to achieve the above objects, the following means are employed in the present invention.
The shibori clothes manufacturing method in accordance with the invention includes at least:
(1) a xe2x80x9cshibori (binding) process,xe2x80x9d in which a dyed and sewn cloth is bound partially at several locations by thread,
(2) a xe2x80x9csetting process, xe2x80x9d having at least a steam setting process in which the bound cloth obtained in the xe2x80x9cshibori (binding) processxe2x80x9d is exposed to steam to maintain the shibori (bound) shapes, and
(3) a xe2x80x9cthread removing process,xe2x80x9d in which the abovementioned thread is removed.
With this manufacturing method, crimps (gathers) can be formed and maintained in the clothes, which are the final products, by the shibori shapes formed in the xe2x80x9cshibori (binding) process.xe2x80x9d
Here, xe2x80x9cshiborixe2x80x9d refers to the forming of crimped, relief-like shapes on cloth by a suitable method. For the abovementioned xe2x80x9cshibori (binding) process,xe2x80x9d shibori methods, such as pinching the cloth partially so as to form a peak and then binding the base part of the peak with thread, etc. can be applied. With this shibori method, numerous, peak-shaped, relief-like crimps with relatively large differences in level can be formed on the cloth.
With another shibori clothes manufacturing method in accordance with the invention, the abovementioned xe2x80x9cshibori (binding) processxe2x80x9d is performed by pleating and then crimping (gathering) the cloth using a sewing needle.
With this manufacturing method, since finer crimps can be formed at a higher density than is possible with methods in which the cloth is bound at parts with thread, shibori clothes can be manufactured that are distinctive in form and are provided with unique handling and draping qualities and comfort when worn.
With yet another shibori clothes manufacturing method in accordance with the invention the abovementioned xe2x80x9cshibori (binding) processesxe2x80x9d may be performed by forming the bound portions successively in progression not in an oblique direction of the abovementioned cloth but in the left-right direction of the cloth.
With this manufacturing method, since the bound portions are successively formed in progression in the left-right direction of the cloth and distortion and warping are thus prevented from occurring in the xe2x80x9csetting process,xe2x80x9d the clothes become flat, and thus, readily arranged and aligned. The clothes are thus made convenient for transport, storage, and maintenance. Furthermore, since the clothes can stretch in all directions and will be especially stretchable in the left-right direction, shibori clothes with a high degree of comfort when worn can be provided.
With still another dyeing method in accordance with the invention, a cloth comprised of cation-dyeable polyester, which has been print-dyed or immersion-dyed with a dispersion-type cationic dye, is used to perform dyeing.
By this method, the migration and sublimation of the dye can be effectively prevented even in clothes manufacturing processes in which various heat treatment processes, including a hot steam setting process, are performed after print dyeing or immersion dyeing.
This method is favorable since, for example, even if the dyed cloths are layered in two, three, or more layers and then exposed to steam in the shibori process, the colors will not be transferred among the cloths and reversible shibori clothes can thus be manufactured readily.
xe2x80x9cCation-dyeable polyesterxe2x80x9d refers to polyester that can be dyed readily with a cationic dye and is generally distinguished from polyester that can be dyed readily with regular dye. xe2x80x9cPrint dyeing processxe2x80x9d refers to the method of dyeing patterns on the cloth using a screen, etc. and xe2x80x9cimmersion dyeing processxe2x80x9d refers to the method of dyeing the cloth by immersion of the cloth itself in a dyeing solution at a prescribed temperature.
With yet a further shibori clothes manufacturing method in accordance with the invention, the cloth made of cation-dyeable polyester as previously described is sewn and the abovementioned xe2x80x9cshibori (binding) processxe2x80x9d is performed on this sewn cloth.
With this manufacturing method, migration and sublimation of the dye from a dark-colored portion to a light-colored portion of the cloth on which a pattern has been formed by print dyeing can be effectively prevented. Shibori clothes, with a vivid pattern and with which the occurrence of color migration, which can take the appearance of soiling of the light-colored portions, is prevented, can thus be manufactured.
With still a further shibori clothes manufacturing method in accordance with the invention, when the cloth of the abovementioned methods is formed from natural textile, the xe2x80x9csetting processxe2x80x9d is comprised only of the xe2x80x9csteam setting process.xe2x80x9d With another shibori clothes manufacturing method in accordance with the invention, when the abovementioned cloth is formed from wool, the xe2x80x9csetting processxe2x80x9d for maintaining the shibori (bound) shapes is performed by successively performing the respective processes of solution immersion, drying, and steam setting. With still another shibori clothes manufacturing method in accordance with the invention, when the abovementioned cloth is made from cotton or hemp, the xe2x80x9csetting processxe2x80x9d for maintaining the shibori (bound) shapes is performed by successively performing the respective processes of solution immersion, water rinsing, neutralization, and drying.
With these shibori manufacturing methods, shibori clothes, which do not become starchy and have soft handling and draping qualities, can be made even when cloths formed from various natural textile materials are used.
Since the shibori clothes of the ninth claim are made by a shibori clothes manufacturing method as previously set forth in any of the first, second, third, fifth, sixth, seventh and eighth methods, the shibori clothes will be clothes with which numerous crimps, formed by partially binding numerous portions of a dyed and sewn cloth, are maintained on the cloth.
With such shibori clothes, forms with unique relief-like shapes will be maintained and these shapes will not degrade even upon water rinsing at low temperature. Also, since the clothes will have the soft handling and draping qualities for kimonos and will have a high level of stretchability, the clothes will be new types of clothes that fit well on the body and be high in comfort when worn. Furthermore, since such shibori clothes will be in the shrunken condition prior to wearing, they will be convenient to carry.
Also, with the shibori clothes made by the abovementioned fifth manufacturing method, since patterns can be formed with the migration and sublimation of dye being prevented, the commercial value of the clothes will be extremely high.
As is clear from the above description, with the abovementioned first or second shibori clothes manufacturing method, desired forms of crimp (gathers) can be formed without fail in a stable manner on clothes, which are the final products, by subjecting the cloth with shibori shapes formed in the xe2x80x9cshibori (binding) processxe2x80x9d to the prescribed xe2x80x9csetting process.xe2x80x9d
Moreover, by using the xe2x80x9cthread tying methodxe2x80x9d or the xe2x80x9cpleating methodxe2x80x9d as the shibori method and by taking further measures concerning the shibori density and degree of shibori, crimps of distinctive forms can be formed on clothes to enable the diversification of products.
Also, by forming the shibori in progression in the left-right direction of the cloth as in the abovementioned third manufacturing method, since distortion and warping will be completely prevented from occurring in the setting process, not only will the clothing on which shibori has been formed be flat, easy to arrange and align, and convenient to transport and store but shibori clothing can be manufactured that stretch and shrink uniformly in the vertical and left-right directions and are thus comfortable to wear.
With the abovementioned fourth print dyeing method, since a dyeing means, which uses cloth made from cation-dyeable polyester that has been print dyed or immersion dyed by a dispersion-type cationic dye, is employed, dye migration and sublimation can be effectively prevented and clothes of vivid coloration can be provided even with a clothes manufacturing process in which various heat treatment processes are applied after the dyeing process.
By sewing the cloth made of cation-dyeable polyester of the abovementioned fourth print dyeing method and subjecting this cloth to the xe2x80x9cshibori (binding) processxe2x80x9d of any of the first to third methods, the migration and sublimation of dye from a dark colored portion to a light colored portion of the cloth on which a pattern has been formed by print dyeing can be effectively prevented and shibori clothes, with a vivid pattern and with which color migration, which can take the appearance of soiling marks, into a light colored portion is prevented, can be manufactured. The added value of shibori clothes can thus be increased.
In the case where a cloth made of natural fiber is to be used, by taking the measures of any of the abovementioned sixth to eight manufacturing methods, shibori clothes, which have soft handling and draping qualities and are not starchy, can be made without fail even from cloth made of wool, cotton or hemp.
Since the shibori clothes made by the shibori clothes manufacturing methods of this invention have the desired shapes and coloration as well as unique forms, stretchability, handling and draping qualities, comfort when worn, etc., they are of extremely high commercial value.